Walking foot. JUKI DU1181N

Walking foot machine. JUKi – DU1181N


This juki DU1181N is an ideal machine for stitching heavy materials such as denim and leather.



What is walking foot machine?

 

The walking foot sewing machine has a special mechanism for stitching fabrics/materials, unlike a normal sewing machine which only feeds with the bottom teeth, it feeds the material with both bottom teeth and walking foot. When the material is being stitched, the bottom teeth and foot will grab and release the fabric from both sides even when the needle is out of the fabric.

This method eliminates uneven fabric stitching and reduces puckering because all layers of the fabrics are fed consistently through the machine in one fluid motion.

This machine is absolutely a game changer if you make heavy garments such as denim pants or leather jacket. Also this model is relatively inexpensive so it’s perfect as your first walking foot sewing machine!

– Studio Masachuka –

Power of Making

 

 


Are you using the right sewing thread for your clothing?

There are a few different threads to choose from depending on the item/material you are working on. At our studio, we are mainly using 6 different types of Japanese Fujix threads (King series).

Sewing thread

King polyester (also called Tetron)
– This superfine and sleek yet strong filament thread is designed as an alternative/immitation of silk thread. It’s suitable for high-end formal garments such as silk dress, tailored jacket, formal blouse and more.

King Spun
– This is an alternative/immitation of cotton thread. It’s widely used among factories. Moon and Coats Cometa threads are one of these.

King Fit
– This is the one we are mainly using. Basically Fit is a hybrid of Tetron and Spun. It’s still very fine and sleek but also easy to use just like Spun thread.

King Resilon F
– If you see this, you won’t notice the difference but it’s self-expansible thread. We use this with Woollie (as bobbin thread) when we stitch lightly stretchy materials.

King Woollie
– This is the same as Woolly nylon. A very stretchy thread.

Ace Crown Hyper
– This is literally “Hyper” thread. It self-expands and sets with heat so you can eliminate/ease seam puckering by ironing it after stitching.

Apart from these different type of threads, we also need to use different weights of thread! e.g. No100 for blind stitch, No90 for our overlock machine, No60 for normal stitching and No 30 for top stitch… How to store tons of threads kind of reveals the character of each manufacturer. 🙂

419 colours !!

– Studio Masachuka –

Power of Making

CAD pattern cutting

Apparel CAD – Alpha myu

We use apparel CAD for pattern cutting. For the type of work we do, this works best. And you never lose small pattern pieces unless you lose the data 🙂 When we make a garment, we need to literally read its patterns and there are lots of signs/marks.

Here are some

Darts, tucks and pleats – sometimes you might get confused which side you need to fold/press.
There are two diagonal lines that indicate the direction. The higher lines side simply goes over the lower lines side.

Normal notch – as you may already know, this is a guide for matching fabrics when you sew.
Triangle notch – this indicates where a zip ends.
Double circle notch – this means “stop stitching” f.e. slit.

ワサマーク(Wasa-Mark) – it means “Cut on fold”. => It’s best to also highlight this part so you don’t cut the fabric by mistake.

Three diagonal lines for fused part.

And there are even more marks. If you are interested, please let me know!

CAD pattern cutting

– Studio Masachuka –

Power of Making

Reece 101

Reece 101

We’ve been dreaming about getting this keyhole buttonhole machine, now we finally got it!
Luckily one of the london based manufacturers was looking for a new home for this monster.

This machine is Reece 101, It’s also called “The Iron Duke”

Reece 101
Reece 101


It is a real vintage but still very popular among makers in the UK . I’ve never seen this one in Japan, Durkopp or Juki are more popular there.

The machine has some “This model only”special features which makes this model so popular.

– Stationery bed plate. Only the head travels around the buttonhole so the garment doesn’t move during stitching

– Handstitch imitation hole. With a top gimp attachment it gives the appearance of a hand-sewn buttonhole.

Reece101
Reece 101 – Button hoke counter

Also our machine has a “buttonhole counter” so you can see how many holes were made so far. It says 252 million!! Oh we love our “The iron dude” 🙂

Reece 101

– Studio Masachuka –


Power of Making


How to make button hole in factory



Brother-LH4-B815


This industrial Brother-LH4-B815 is for making shirt button hole.

– Studio Masachuka –

Power of Making

When I left my country 7 yrs ago I was given some nice farewell gifts.

This”Amakusa natural waterstone/sharpning stone” is from a guy who is running a sewing machine shop in my hometown.(Amakusa is his hometown)

He used to run a sewing factory so he knows so much about sewing and of course sewing machines as well. Highly recommended if you would start up a sewing studio in Japan.

This pair of scissors is from my big boss.

He always said that well looked after tools are the symbol of a craftman so you should shine up your stuff all the time.

Well..I’m still not good at caring my stuff though..oh I’m trying…


But whenever I have time I try to remember his words and take care of my buddies.

I love stuff that has history (His+Story) 🙂

– Studio Masachuka –

Power of Making