Tag Archives: pattern cutting

Make your own Monpe pants!

This is the Monpe pants pattern which I digitised based on a sewing book published in 1934.
The origin of Monpe dates back to Japanese medieval time. As you can see these are quite bulky but the concept is very interesting and inspirational. We’ve already developed these pants and made 8 prototypes so far and hope we can finalise after making a couple more.

This layout is designed for a traditional Japanese fabric which width is around 34cm-36cm. Basically this is zero wastage pattern layout. I haven’t indicated any notches on these patterns apart from the end point for front rise. But it’s better to add some notches for making your sewing easier and more accurate.

1cm seam allowance is already included on these patterns.
There is no waist measurement (I made some tucks to fit my waist)
You need to make side slits. I couldn’t find any instruction for this so I just folded the side seams diagonal. The slit are quite long and wide open but old Japanese people wore very long top.

Stitching them up is quite straightforward. Hope you can work out with this very simple instruction.

This is how they look like. Quite wide and bulky. but the construction is very inspirational. You can use this as a base pattern for your developed/ manipulated versions.

I’ve added a movie on Instagram so if interested please check it out.

Good luck!

Original Monpe pants pattern

This is the pattern layout for Karusan/Monpe pants (軽袴/もんぺ). I made this based on the textbook published by Shuji Kuramochi in 1934. The length is 530cm and the width is 37cm (as this is the standard width of Japanese traditional fabrics) Basically there is no wastage, apart from the one marked in red. It took a bit of time to figure out how I could make trousers out of this! The origin of these pants goes back to medieval times. It’s thought they were created based on trousers worn by Portuguese missionaries (calção = Shorts! lol). Initially worn by many people at that time (from Samurais to farmers), it then became more like workwear. Because they`re so comfortable/ easy to move around, they`re still quite popular in Japan as workwear. For me these patterns are very impressive and inspirational as I just got so used to modern trousers patterns.
I will make a sample based on this (hopefully tomorrow if I have time!)
Will keep you updated!

First Momohiki sample!

The first Momohiki pants prototype.
First of all I attached the front panel the other way round! Left side should be on top.
I tweeked the original pattern quite a lot. I guess it looks a bit less like nappy pants?
I attached a pocket on the back and made a fake fly.
Anyway these needs lots of developments. Will keep you updated!

We also filmed how to wear the Momohiki pants, If interested please check our Instagram post.

Click Here

Momohiki/Madabiki pants

Momohiki/Matabiki=股引き is a Japanese traditional garment dating back from the14th century and similar to western trousers. Originally they were worn by farmers,craftsmen and etc. Nowadays they’re more common during festivals and ceremonial occasions.

This textbook was written in 1880 by Genpachi Suzuki. It’s very interesting to see how the patterns are cut differently comparing to modern ones. One of the patterns is shaped as to fit the legs. Because the width of traditional Japanese fabric is about 37cm, these patterns had to be created with this limitation in mind. However, I think this limitation also creates more creativity!

I’ve created CAD patterns based on this book adding some adjustments. We will make this like the original one first, then develop it for our own workpants
Will keep you updated.

The first Haragake sample!

Haragake prototype 01

Looks like an apron but Haragake is a traditional Japanese top worn as workwear during Samurai period. This prototype was made based on the old textbook adding some adjustments. It has 5 pockets including a coin pocket. Neck and waistbands are shaped for better fit. These decorative stitches are also for reinforcement. Armhole and neck are bound to make it more secure and strong. The hem has 15cm slits so it works perfectly when you sit down.
I will try to develop this into something more modern and versatile  Will keep you updated!

Haragake – Japanese traditional workwear

This texbook was written by Mangoro Maruyama in 1886. This book features the ways of making various traditional Japanese garments. This is a Haragake (腹掛け), one of the most popular traditional Japanese workwear during Edo period, and still worn today (festive activities, performances,..) It’s shaped like an apron. It’s loved and worn by various craftmen, shopkeepers and also firefighters.
As we are working on workwear at the moment, making our own studio uniform, I created a CAD pattern based on one in this textbook.
I changed the measurements and details to meet our needs though. We will make the first toile to develop the garment. I will keep you updated how it goes!